[BBBingo]

Ducati gave the 959 taller gearing, 43 tooth rear sprocket vs the 44 tooth on the 899.

not sure why they felt the need for that though...

 

[supersport]

Torque curve is different/hp is different. Power delivery is not identical to the 899 which that previous gearing was chosen for.

They are looking for a certain characteristic from the bike as it comes out of the corner, over drivability, throttle feel, throttle friendliness, etc, etc and maybe even fuel consumption.

 

[DaveyDork]

Torque curve is different/hp is different. Power delivery is not identical to the 899 which that previous gearing was chosen for.

They are looking for a certain characteristic from the bike as it comes out of the corner, over drivability, throttle feel, throttle friendliness, etc, etc and maybe even fuel consumption.

Indeed. I'm curious to see what it feels like with 899-esque gearing and vice versa.

 

[BBBingo]

Does this match the 1299 by chance as well?

 

[SpeedyGonzales]

I think the 1299 has a 29 tooth rear sprocket.

 

[dougo1199]

Has anyone changed their gearing on a 959? I've always gone up two teeth on the rear with my bikes so I ordered the 520 conversion kit up two in the rear for the 959 as well. We'll see how it works.

 

[ASM]

I think the 1299 has a 29 tooth rear sprocket.

1299 stock sprocket is 39...

 

[Dingo]

Has anyone changed their gearing on a 959? I've always gone up two teeth on the rear with my bikes so I ordered the 520 conversion kit up two in the rear for the 959 as well. We'll see how it works.

I assume you know how this will impact performance when you twist the grip... why would you want to make the front wheel come up even quicker, which would probably result in you dialing in the ABS and TC more...?

Here's a great little Gearing calculator

 

[I<3twins]

1299 stock sprocket is 39...

If I was drinking water I would have spit it out if the rear was really 29 haha 39 sounds a lot more realistic.

 

[dougo1199]

I assume you know how this will impact performance when you twist the grip... why would you want to make the front wheel come up even quicker, which would probably result in you dialing in the ABS and TC more...?

Here's a great little Gearing calculator

I am aware, yes. Obviously I'll need to ride it a bit to dial everything in, but I find that in general, for my style of riding, that the little extra bit of low end grunt (which is minimal) equals more smiles per mile. Not concerned with top end loss for the street.

 

[dougo1199]

It's all in the wrist!! ; )

Thanks for posting the calculator! Pretty neat.

 

[DarR]

Has anyone changed their gearing on a 959? I've always gone up two teeth on the rear with my bikes so I ordered the 520 conversion kit up two in the rear for the 959 as well. We'll see how it works.

I am aware, yes. Obviously I'll need to ride it a bit to dial everything in, but I find that in general, for my style of riding, that the little extra bit of low end grunt (which is minimal) equals more smiles per mile. Not concerned with top end loss for the street.

Looking forward to reading the results of your gearing change.

 

[dougo1199]

Picked up the bike on Friday. Have been working on getting the mod parts installed. Upon installing the 520 conversion with the 45 tooth rear I discovered that the stock positioning of the wheel was somewhat more towards the front of the adjustability range. So by adding the 45 rear my only option was to move the wheel back about 10mm from the stock position - which is actually more towards the center of the range. There is not enough adjustability to move forward once you trim the chain. I will see how it feels and I can always go back to a 43 rear if need be.

Here's a pic of the wheel in it's current position. The yellow marks on the swingarm indicate the stock position, which were centered with the "U" on the axel block. As you can see it's actually more centered in the range now.

 

[Dingo]

you could always rotate the Sliding Shoe 180 degrees if you had to

 

[dougo1199]

you could always rotate the Sliding Shoe 180 degrees if you had to

Thanks for the tip. I actually just discover you're able to do that. lol! I'd rather go back than forward anyway I think.

 

[Kevin.H]

Ordered a 14t front at work today. For $40 it's worth seeing if the bump is worthwhile before rebuilding the backend.

 

[I<3twins]

Ordered a 14t front at work today. For $40 it's worth seeing if the bump is worthwhile before rebuilding the backend.

I was told going one up in the front on a Duc is very common. I don't even use 6th gear till 90+mph so going up one in the front (and maybe even up one in the back) seems like a smart move.

 

[dougo1199]

I was told going one up in the front on a Duc is very common. I don't even use 6th gear till 90+mph so going up one in the front (and maybe even up one in the back) seems like a smart move.

Are you trying to go taller than stock with your gearing? Not a common thing in the Ducati world.

You'll want to go DOWN in the front and UP in the back to lower (shorten) your gearing. The opposite to raise (taller). Also, when you go down in the front it will sometimes create more drag on the swingarm chain sliders.

 

[I<3twins]

Are you trying to go taller than stock with your gearing? Not a common thing in the Ducati world.

You'll want to go DOWN in the front and UP in the back to lower (shorten) your gearing. The opposite to raise (taller). Also, when you go down in the front it will sometimes create more drag on the swingarm chain sliders.

You're 100% right. I wrote that wrong. down in the front up in the back. Tell me more about the drag on the swing arm slider. I have never heard of this.

 

[Dingo]

...Tell me more about the drag on the swing arm slider. I have never heard of this.

You're reducing the diameter of the front sprocket by removing a tooth - that changes the geometry of the chain traveling around it, increasing the angle towards center causing the chain to rub along the guides more.
I don't think you'll notice a difference.