Indeed. I'm curious to see what it feels like with 899-esque gearing and vice versa.Torque curve is different/hp is different. Power delivery is not identical to the 899 which that previous gearing was chosen for.
They are looking for a certain characteristic from the bike as it comes out of the corner, over drivability, throttle feel, throttle friendliness, etc, etc and maybe even fuel consumption.
1299 stock sprocket is 39...I think the 1299 has a 29 tooth rear sprocket.
I assume you know how this will impact performance when you twist the grip... why would you want to make the front wheel come up even quicker, which would probably result in you dialing in the ABS and TC more...?Has anyone changed their gearing on a 959? I've always gone up two teeth on the rear with my bikes so I ordered the 520 conversion kit up two in the rear for the 959 as well. We'll see how it works.
If I was drinking water I would have spit it out if the rear was really 29 haha 39 sounds a lot more realistic.1299 stock sprocket is 39...
I am aware, yes. Obviously I'll need to ride it a bit to dial everything in, but I find that in general, for my style of riding, that the little extra bit of low end grunt (which is minimal) equals more smiles per mile. Not concerned with top end loss for the street.I assume you know how this will impact performance when you twist the grip... why would you want to make the front wheel come up even quicker, which would probably result in you dialing in the ABS and TC more...?
Here's a great little Gearing calculator
Has anyone changed their gearing on a 959? I've always gone up two teeth on the rear with my bikes so I ordered the 520 conversion kit up two in the rear for the 959 as well. We'll see how it works.
Looking forward to reading the results of your gearing change.I am aware, yes. Obviously I'll need to ride it a bit to dial everything in, but I find that in general, for my style of riding, that the little extra bit of low end grunt (which is minimal) equals more smiles per mile. Not concerned with top end loss for the street.
Thanks for the tip. I actually just discover you're able to do that. lol! I'd rather go back than forward anyway I think.you could always rotate the Sliding Shoe 180 degrees if you had to
I was told going one up in the front on a Duc is very common. I don't even use 6th gear till 90+mph so going up one in the front (and maybe even up one in the back) seems like a smart move.Ordered a 14t front at work today. For $40 it's worth seeing if the bump is worthwhile before rebuilding the backend.
Are you trying to go taller than stock with your gearing? Not a common thing in the Ducati world.I was told going one up in the front on a Duc is very common. I don't even use 6th gear till 90+mph so going up one in the front (and maybe even up one in the back) seems like a smart move.
You're 100% right. I wrote that wrong. down in the front up in the back. Tell me more about the drag on the swing arm slider. I have never heard of this.Are you trying to go taller than stock with your gearing? Not a common thing in the Ducati world.
You'll want to go DOWN in the front and UP in the back to lower (shorten) your gearing. The opposite to raise (taller). Also, when you go down in the front it will sometimes create more drag on the swingarm chain sliders.
You're reducing the diameter of the front sprocket by removing a tooth - that changes the geometry of the chain traveling around it, increasing the angle towards center causing the chain to rub along the guides more....Tell me more about the drag on the swing arm slider. I have never heard of this.