Can you explain what exactly needs to be removed to put a 14T on the front of the 959, and why it's such a headache? ThanksYeah, the rear is easy, takes 15 minutes start to finish, the front is a pain in the ***, the front sprocket requires a ton of things to be removed and pulled out to get it out.
For that reason I went with +3 on the rear, and used that as an excuse to get a gold chain so that I could have it +2 links from stock, in order to keep the stock wheelbase with the larger rear sprocket.
Whereas -1/+2 the sprocket sizes sorta cancel each other out and keeps the wheelbase largely the same. Chain costs more than a front sprocket, but it was an easier install and looks better.
959 Gearing Change
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The sprocket cover, the shifter linkage and the entire assembly that the shock attaches to... that all needs to come off so that you can get enough room to slide the sprocket off. That shock and mounting assembly is under a lot of pressure, and so it can very easily shift out of place, and make it a real pain to get back on.
Now, if you are also replacing the chain, then it's not an issue, as you will be cutting the chain and can pull off the front sprocket without removing that shock assembly... Just the cover and shifter, which is pretty easy...
I don't thing I'll be cutting/replacing the chain. I put a 14T front sprocket on my 2016 Monster 1200R, and had to remove some shifter/footpeg mounting stuff to get it done. I'm embarrassed to ask, as I've always had belt driven bikes, but can I simply remove remove a link pin from the stock chain to separate it, install the 14T, then reassemble the chain (you know, like a bicycle)? Thanks
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If you know the exact model of chain and can get the proper master link for it, then yes, you can cut the chain and re-rivet it together. Never use clip style chains on a motorcycle.
I've got the 14T for the front of my 959.
I understand it's a hassle to install. The only thing that's stopping me are your comments about the rear shock being difficult to remove/reinstall.
Is this a 1 man job? Can you offer any tips/tricks for getting it done?
Thanks
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It was a total pain in the *** so I gave up on it, did a +3 rear sprocket and longer chain instead... Accomplished the same thing and much easier.
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I concur. Although I have had the -1F done as a cheap option (and loved it), I could not have done the work myself.
My advice is this:
If you have a new 959, then a 14T is a good cheap option including labor.
If your chain and sprockets needs replacement, I'd go stock 15T front and +3Rear instead.
mmm... weren't the guys above saying the front sprocket is a PITA changing the front sprocket? Or are they referring to the 899 whilst you're talking about the 959?
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I was definitely talking about the 959 although, I can't imagine the 899 being any different.
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I did the front but I don't remember anything particularly hard about it. You have to get stuff out of the way of course, but I don't remember anything particularly burdensome .
Hmm you two are bringing good news 'cos this is something I want to do soon but Squires says the front is difficult because of the shock being under a lot of pressure:
but Squires says the front is difficult because of the shock being under a lot of pressure:
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I have solid mount pegs, so all I did was put jack stands under them instead of the rear stand. No pressure on the shock at all.
Rear wheel off the ground. The shock in not under pressure so much as the weight of the bike is on it. if you support the bike by the pegs or other method the weight of the wheel will be on the shock mount vs the weight of the bike on the shock mount. you can easily support the weight of the wheel to remove the linkage.
I have found the 959 very difficult to work on because everything is packed in so tightly. I spend more time looking for things I have dropped and that have vanished than actual progress building up a race bike. I've done shock, linkage, and rear sets. I personally would not hesitate to do the front sprocket. Once I figure out what gearing I want I may do just that
t_bare
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Its off the ground maybe an inch or so. You can use the rear stand to lift and lower the swing arm to get zero weight on the shock in order to remove the shock bolt.
14T sprocket is now on my Panigale 959 Corse.
Kind of a hassle getting all the brackets, etc. out of the way just to install a front sprocket, but well worth my effort.
I have this same mod on my Monster 1200R, and couldn't be happier with the results on the 959.
I understand the 959 is a Sport/Track bike, but it's the 'around town' ease of riding that make this mod so appealing to me.
I hesitate to even call it a 'mod', as I view it as more of a correction. The difference is that dramatic.
Can anyone comment if the 14T is an advantage or disadvantage with respect to track riding?
Thanks
Kind of a hassle getting all the brackets, etc. out of the way just to install a front sprocket, but well worth my effort.
I have this same mod on my Monster 1200R, and couldn't be happier with the results on the 959.
I understand the 959 is a Sport/Track bike, but it's the 'around town' ease of riding that make this mod so appealing to me.
I hesitate to even call it a 'mod', as I view it as more of a correction. The difference is that dramatic.
Can anyone comment if the 14T is an advantage or disadvantage with respect to track riding?
Thanks
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115 Posts
Rear shock?
You definitely do not need to touch the shock period! If you loosen the rear axle nut and allow the axle blocks to move forward creating plenty of slack in the chain before to attempt to remove the sprocket you will have enough room to get the job done . I have done this myself no need to get the wheel in the air.
You definitely do not need to touch the shock period! If you loosen the rear axle nut and allow the axle blocks to move forward creating plenty of slack in the chain before to attempt to remove the sprocket you will have enough room to get the job done . I have done this myself no need to get the wheel in the air.
Having just done this, I would have to disagree.
So would the Ducati Service Manual.
Thanks
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