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Almost there... Technically it's 1,553 miles. But I figured I'd post this anyways. It's the mileage on the bike right now in my garage. It's forecast to rain for the next 4 - 5 days around here. But I might see if I can head to an area that will stay relatively dry today.

BTW, does anyone else think that the break-in service should be performed at 959km (instead of 1,000km)?
 

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I can't wait to knock out my break-in mileage so I can get to the track! Haven't been on any good twisty roads so staying below 6k has been especially painful.
 

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Only stayed under 6,000rpm for the first 500km, then went to the occasional 8,000rpm until first service which I had at 1,300km. I did plenty of hills runs, up down, loading gears, compression braking etc. Now at 2,000k's it seems the occasional shift light and them motor feels good.

Keeping it under 7,500rpm until 2,500km is insane.
 

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I thought it was excessive but I've never owned nor worked on a twin. Additionally, I don't own a team in WSBK or motogp so figured I'll trust in their recommendations based on $xxx,xxx,xxx.xx of r&d lol

I avg 7500miles a year on my bikes and I keep them a long time so It does me no good to to have a blast today and deal with oil consumption issues out of warranty.
 
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Actually, taking it easy will glaze bores an cause oil consumption problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Only stayed under 6,000rpm for the first 500km, then went to the occasional 8,000rpm until first service which I had at 1,300km. I did plenty of hills runs, up down, loading gears, compression braking etc. Now at 2,000k's it seems the occasional shift light and them motor feels good.

Keeping it under 7,500rpm until 2,500km is insane.
So are you saying that you're not going over 8,000rpm? Or that was just until the first service?
 

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What is the basis for these manufacturer recommendations?
 

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What is the basis for these manufacturer recommendations?
Overall, they don't want you to ride it like you're trying to get the best lap time on a track. Periodically easing into the higher RPM range's is apparently a good thing to do, just that it has to be a small percentage of what you do overall.
 

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It's funny because people's opinions about break-in are all over the map on forums. I did occasionally blip above the recommended rpm's, but not by much and not often. You can still have a ton of fun on this bike with upshifting at 8,000rpm.
 

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Overall, they don't want you to ride it like you're trying to get the best lap time on a track. Periodically easing into the higher RPM range's is apparently a good thing to do, just that it has to be a small percentage of what you do overall.
It's funny because people's opinions about break-in are all over the map on forums. I did occasionally blip above the recommended rpm's, but not by much and not often. You can still have a ton of fun on this bike with upshifting at 8,000rpm.
I hear you both. And avigil is spot on; you can go to any online community and get 10 different opinions on a handful of methods. As I side before, I couldn't presume to know more than the r&d of a company with multiple race teams. I've had vehicles that weren't broken in by mfg recommendations so I'm not especially concerned. Things are generally made to tighter tolerances than they once were.
 
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For the first 30-60 miles I was a bit tender with the bike, not exceeding 7k rpm. But now, at 400 miles, I've already been riding it like I stole it.
 

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Kinda curious about how I am gonna be able to deal with this break in. Its funny, because the race car engines get put in, you run the dog poop out of them for a half hour on the track, bring it in, change oil and filter and adjust valves and she is good to go.
But seeing as how thats a "loose" 30 year old BMW engine design, I am willing to follow stricter rules for my new bike.
 

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500k - 6,000rpm: loads of gear changes and some light load up hills and engine breaking. No full throttle, no QS.
500k-1,300k:8,500rpm loads of gear changes and some heavier loading in as many gears up hills and engine breaking. No full throttle.
1,300k - 2000k: Eased up on gear changes, pretty much ride it like normal, periodic WOT for short bursts not extended periods.
2,000k ride as per normal. Gearbox feels great, engine feels like it's freed up nicely.

We've had several new cars, bikes and built turbo rotary engines through our house. All run in the same and have never had an issue.
 

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Pretty much how my running in is tracking. Just over 700 km now and have moved the upper limit to 8000rpm with occasional short bursts above it. Definitely no revving to change lights and using the quickshifter to quickly move through the gears. I did hit 140kph briefly whilst overtaking a big truck this morning but not sure what my revs were as I was looking down the road.
 

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Resurrecting this thread as I'm only 400kms on my new wheels and the recommended run in seems little ridiculous to me. 5000 rpm is barely into mid range and don't see how that's a good way to break in a modern engine.

As alluded previously, there are broadly two camps; the gentle run in camp (ala Ducati manual), and the more liberal use of the engine camp. There's been more of a shift towards the latter with engine tolerances being far more precise in the modern era.

This was a topic of hot debate among Ariel Atom owners back when I was privileged to count myself amongst them (when I was in the UK for a few years). When I picked up my new Atom 3, the factory said not to baby it and to use all the revs (I'm sure this was contrary to the guidance Honda would provide to new Civic Type R owners running the same engine). There were a number of knowledgeable folks that said this was important to extract full power out of the engine post break in i.e. engines that were babied would be slightly down on power (relatively). This was somewhat backed up by putting a few cars on a dyno and comparing power output across cars with babied and "spirited" break ins.

I think I saw mentioned in another thread here that a Ducati dealer told a new 959 owner not to worry about the documented run in.
 

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There's also the factor of breaking in all other mechanical components. I read on another Ducati forum (rumored, but possibly true) that all Ducati engines are broken in at the factory and some dealers just recommend taking it easy for break-in of transmission/bearings/etc..

I did my best to seat the rings, went HAM on the throttle (WOT in wet, so not really WOT) and just focused on varying engine speed with lots of engine braking. I essentially did what @Cazzo said above.

@Dave Fellows are you going full rev range, ride it like you stole in?
 

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Yeah, basically similar to what you describe. I'm doing roughly;

<= 6.5k - 85%
6.5 - 10k - 14%
10 - 12k - 1% (i.e. have let it run full rev range 3 or 4 times so far)

WOT in sport (MED) a couple of times each ride.
 

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My dealer told me not to worry about it, to ride using the whole range, just do not maintain the same rpms for a constant period. And to take the bike at 600 miles for first service and check up. After that 10,000 miles or 1 year whatever is first. Another thing he told me was to be careful with the tires, as they have some wax on the sides when new. That was it.
Currently at 150 miles, the gentle break in period has been more with the rider.
 

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Lots of opinions but I'll throw my hat in and see if I can find the article that convinced me. Also I spoke with a Duc owner who has had a handful of new ducs in the last few years who said he gets better dyno numbers than all his friends using my method.

75% throttle all the way up, just shy of redline. Go all the way through 6th this way then engine brake down through the gears. First 50 miles is most important. Wouldn't want to commute(steady rpm) at least the first 150miles. If the timing worked out I was going to track it for break in. Do a couple warm up laps then ride it like normal just don't get quite to redline.

Imho you're not going to have an issue whether you follow my method or baby it for the first 10k miles. I believe you get better ring seating(more power, even if marginally) if you're a little harder on it than the manufacturer recommends. Once I hit 150 miles I will change the oil and ride like normal and change the oil again at 600 miles, afterward changing every 3k or track day whichever comes first.

EDIT: here's my link
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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