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I have that same feeling with the initial turn in, but I wanted to get some more seat time to see if it was just a rider adjustment. More than likely I may end up lowering the front a tad.

Yep, I feel like I'm on a chopper, like the rear is slammed or the front is riding too high.


I have to muscle it down into the turn but then it seems to hold it's line well midcorner.


You look like you have a lot of bikes in the garage like I do, I've found it takes about 3000-4000 miles to adapt to a new bike if you're riding a lot of older more familiar ones.
 

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@Kruz - it sounds like you need to visit a shop and have them adjust the rake for you, after seeing your riding position, if you feel like the front is higher than the back. Both the front and back probably need adjustment.
 

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The only adjustments that would affect rake and trail would be front and rear spring preload (sag) and dropping the front fork in the triple clamps. I don't believe there is a rear ride height adjustment on this machine.
 

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The only adjustments that would affect rake and trail would be front and rear spring preload (sag) and dropping the front fork in the triple clamps. I don't believe there is a rear ride height adjustment on this machine.
I believe you're correct on the rear ride height adjustment. I think dropping the forks one ring would make a difference on mine. My only concern is not having enough clearance with the front tire against the radiator under heavy braking. I have to look it over some more.
 

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Yep, I feel like I'm on a chopper, like the rear is slammed or the front is riding too high.


I have to muscle it down into the turn but then it seems to hold it's line well midcorner.


You look like you have a lot of bikes in the garage like I do, I've found it takes about 3000-4000 miles to adapt to a new bike if you're riding a lot of older more familiar ones.
Yeah, that doesn't seem right. These bikes should be extremely "flickable".

I totally agree! Coming from a 2001 Monster street bike the turn in points are much different. That said, I would think I'd be over steering a bit more with the 959 which is why I'm thinking it should have a little better turn in. But it's very close to being right. Also thinking about dropping the front tire pressure a bit. Currently at 36 psi as recommend on the frame plate.
 

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Hi Doug, my street pressures with the stock Corsa Rosso tires is 34 F and 34 R.


I am going back to stock suspension settings today. My take is the bike is already setup pretty stiff as standard based on comparisons to my other bikes on the same roads. Going even stiffer made a mess out of things, poor bump compliance and no improvement in turn in or corner exit. Looking at my notes, the bike was handling fairly decent out of the box and everything I've done is apparently going in the wrong direction. I'll try standard settings next and then take one turn of preload out of the front at a time to see if that makes it turn in better. When I get a bike setup right, I know it because it is so easy to go fast in the corners without any of those oh s#!% moments....lol!
 

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Hi Doug, my street pressures with the stock Corsa Rosso tires is 34 F and 34 R.


I am going back to stock suspension settings today. My take is the bike is already setup pretty stiff as standard based on comparisons to my other bikes on the same roads. Going even stiffer made a mess out of things, poor bump compliance and no improvement in turn in or corner exit. Looking at my notes, the bike was handling fairly decent out of the box and everything I've done is apparently going in the wrong direction. I'll try standard settings next and then take one turn of preload out of the front at a time to see if that makes it turn in better. When I get a bike setup right, I know it because it is so easy to go fast in the corners without any of those oh s#!% moments....lol!
Makes total sense! At least you're smart enough to make notes so you know which direction to go. I do the same thing, it really helps. Are you getting decent wear at 34 psi? The rear feels awesome, the bike has loads of grip coming out of the corners. It's been so hot / humid here that I figured I would still get good grip at the stock 36 psi, and maybe a bit more tire life. I will give it a shot at 34 psi.
 

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I'm at 1350 miles on the original Pirellis and guessing I'm 2/3 of the way done, so maybe 2000 miles front and rear. I've never had either end slip at the 34/34 setting with TC set on level 3. The bike has massive grip with the Corsa Rosso tires on there.
 

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I'm at 1350 miles on the original Pirellis and guessing I'm 2/3 of the way done, so maybe 2000 miles front and rear. I've never had either end slip at the 34/34 setting with TC set on level 3. The bike has massive grip with the Corsa Rosso tires on there.
I agree! The OEM tires are great. Sounds like you're getting about the same wear rates as I am too. I'm at 1200 miles and don't expect to get more than another 800.
 

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Hi Doug, try my posted 959 preload adjustment on the front fork, 2 turns in from full soft and retest. You might even go another turn out (softer), so 1 turn out from full soft since you weigh less. I'm going to take one more turn of preload out and retest on all of my BPF fork bikes, the 959, ZX-10R and the CBR1000RR as they seem to really respond well to this. I have the BPF fork on the ZX-6R also but the standard settings are so good I hate to mess with it. It turns in super quick already and I don't want to create any front instability. I've been trying to figure out why my ZX-14 handles corners so well, which defies logic and I think it's the decided stinkbug attitude of this bike. If you check out my Avatar, it sits nose low and is the only bike I have that will bottom out the front fork if I slam the front brakes and hit a big bump. I won't touch the settings because it does everything else so well.
 

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It's been over two years since I last visited this thread, ended up back at Ulrich's settings and they are stiff but working well for me, although I've upped the pace a lot since 2016; which probably explains why they are working for me now but didn't back then. My fork preload is now at 5 turns in from full soft, Ulrich called for 22 clicks in from full soft, I think 4 clicks = 1 turn so he was at 5 1/2 turns in from full soft, so right in the ballpark. I had tried as little as one turn out on front preload which seemed to help turn in at the expense of braking stability on corner entry, the arse end kept trying to come around on me which will certainly get your attention.


I rode the ZX-14 this morning and I've stiffened the ride up a bit since 2016 and run Bridgestone RS-10s on it now and it is still a dream, I'm not sure if any thing I own can hang with Big Red in a fast sweeper, like it's on a rail and so smooth! That said, as the pace has quickened over the years , I feel like it might be time to stiffen her up again, just a touch mind you.


I'm playing with the Repsol SP Honda now and it was velvety smooth on the stock Ohlins settings but I've recently upped the pace and found it had a few shortcomings when really pressing on. I've softened up the forks and stiffened up the rear end and I 've noticed it is markedly quicker in the corners now with the downside a slightly more choppy ride in the bumpier sections.


Suspension tuning is an ongoing practice it seems, what works today won't necessarily work for you tomorrow if you change your riding style or up your pace.
 

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Just made several more changes and hope to ride today if the weather will just clear up. to test the results. I dialed in one more turn of preload up front for a total of 6 in from full soft, dialed out (softened) one full turn of front compression and took out (softened) two full turns of rear compression. The idea here is give even better support to the front end when trail braking into the corners but take a little of the front and rear harshness out for better compliance on the braking bumps. Just pumping the suspension in the garage it feels better, we'll see if this is the way to go. Been riding it for a long time on the previous settings and they work OK but hoping for a slight improvement in the ride quality overall.
 

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Yep, have not changed the springs as they are pretty stiff already. Those last tweeks did it, I am very close now to finding that fine balance between bump compliance and control. I could tell immediately my speeds were up everywhere, especially on corner exits and it felt much more stable on the brakes on corner entry, no more of the rear end trying to come around on me. In the bumps, it felt more "Jap" like, which is a good thing but Ducatis do seem to move around a bit more than other machines, just a characteristic of the breed I suppose. I did notice the front end felt a bit heavier when turning at low speeds but this sensation vanished at higher cornering speeds and it dropped right in to the turns without having to muscle it over. I need to leave it alone and ride it a few more times to really get a feel for the new settings. Compared to stock settings, the biggest changes were more front preload and more front and rear rebound with slightly more compression on both ends but stock settings were pretty close on compression. My initial complaint on the stock settings was a floaty sensation which the added rebound on both ends seems to have fixed nicely.
 

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I just checked and here's where I am at now.


EBC 3 Minimal engine braking effect.
DTC 3 Moderate traction control intervention.
ABS 1 Minimal ABS intervention.


Front Forks:
Preload 5 3/4 turns in from full soft. Standard is 4 turns in from full soft
Compression 2 turns out from full hard. Standard is 4 turns out from full hard
Rebound 3 turns out from full hard Standard is 5 turns out from full hard


Rear shock:
Preload standard 17mm
Compression 2 1/2 turns out from full hard. Standard is 2 1/2 turns out from full hard
Rebound 6 clicks out from full hard. Standard is 12 clicks out from full hard
 
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