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Just picked up a red 959. Still breaking it in at 50 miles... Has anyone had experience with altering the geometry on their 959 by lowering the front forks and/or raising the rear ride height? I do a lot of canyon carving w/ very sharp and frequent turns and would prefer to have quicker steering. If you have experience raising the rear ride height, how did you go about doing this? What did you purchase? Thanks, Chris
 

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Just picked up a red 959. Still breaking it in at 50 miles... Has anyone had experience with altering the geometry on their 959 by lowering the front forks and/or raising the rear ride height? I do a lot of canyon carving w/ very sharp and frequent turns and would prefer to have quicker steering. If you have experience raising the rear ride height, how did you go about doing this? What did you purchase? Thanks, Chris
From what I can tell the rear linkage in non-adjustable on these bikes from the factory. There may be some aftermarket bits specific to the 959 out there, but you may be better off starting with lowering the forks or adjusting your front / rear preload. The clearance between the front wheel and the fairings are pretty tight on these bikes so proceed with caution if lowering the front end.
 

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Welcome to the forum!

What exact roads have you gone on in the past?
Always stuck to city streets and highways, never ventured out to the truly ideal riding roads :(
 

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Just picked up a red 959. Still breaking it in at 50 miles... Has anyone had experience with altering the geometry on their 959 by lowering the front forks and/or raising the rear ride height? I do a lot of canyon carving w/ very sharp and frequent turns and would prefer to have quicker steering. If you have experience raising the rear ride height, how did you go about doing this? What did you purchase? Thanks, Chris
Uhh..Maybe it's just me, but I thought that lowering the front forks increased trail. Decreasing trail would not be good for your health. The more you make this bike into a racer, geometery-wise, the less you'll be able to ride it on the street. This is just my 2 cents - do what you need to do - but I'd take my bike to a shop with either a Scheibner Mega - m.a.x. system with CMS or the GMD Computrack system. both of these systems are insanely accurate and can give you a true "what if" output on all geometry aspects, such as the change when installing a new tire and what you can expect. Still, like I said, you can do adjustments however you like. YMMV
 

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Uhh..Maybe it's just me, but I thought that lowering the front forks increased trail. Decreasing trail would not be good for your health. The more you make this bike into a racer, geometery-wise, the less you'll be able to ride it on the street. This is just my 2 cents - do what you need to do - but I'd take my bike to a shop with either a Scheibner Mega - m.a.x. system with CMS or the GMD Computrack system. both of these systems are insanely accurate and can give you a true "what if" output on all geometry aspects, such as the change when installing a new tire and what you can expect. Still, like I said, you can do adjustments however you like. YMMV
Sorry, I meant to say that simply increasing trail would not be good for your health.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Lol. After all is said, Ohlins NIX30 FGK229 Fork Cartridges in the front, DU361 Ohlins TTX GP in the back, perfect springs rates front and back, perfect valving front and back (took some time to tune it just right), I always come back to stock 959 geometry settings being the best setup for my riding. On the 749, stock setting were not at all desirable. Had to slam the front (4 lines), and jack up the back (almost maxing out the adjustable tie-rod) to get it to handle right (at least for the type of riding I did).
 
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