Ducati 959 Panigale Forum banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I finally got around to getting some WC rearsets for the upcoming Track season. Spent a good few hours yesterday installing both sides. Made some pre-measurements of the stock setup and my final setup to get a sense of foot position. Dialed in the brake pedal height, position and the gear shift lever side as well. Things seemed great

Took her for a spin today to get a feel, the brake pedal had good feedback on the stands, pedal had resistance, tire spun free on the stand things seemed good.

15min in the to the ride at no more than 35-40mph in small back roads, tested the brake pedal feel. Seemed fine, tried it a few more times, rode for maybe ~25min. 15miles. Nearly 4mi from the house, noticed the the pedal had alot more downward movement. Pedal comes back up just fine. Pulled over at the house. Noticed that every time I pushed down on the pedal the caliper was squishing fluid out the bottom of it right on to the wheel. At this point, now at the house there it no more fluid in the Res. Also noticed that whatever happened, heat from the caliper melted the outer shroud of the ABS cable. The plastic portion. Like the cable was melted to the caliper a bit and had to tug to pull it off the caliper.

1st) Anyone have some thoughts to what happened here? My own thoughts are the plunger rod is pushing too far up into the master cylinder and perhaps I adjusted it wrong? Its too long and the length pushed the fluid so hard it blew out the caliper. I'm fairly certain I adjusted the nut at the base of the rod to near the bottom, maybe I need to rethink that in some fashion? I'm not sure that is the culprit. My neighbor has a 1199 with WC sets, the same. I am going to look at his plunger setup to compare.

2nd) Options? Is there a rebuild kit out there for these calipers? Or should I just forgo and by new. Part number is 61140412A. Since I will remove the wheel to clean the mess, I might as well change the ABS sensor cable, part 55212121B. I would sorta forgo this, but the rear brake is very handy at Track events (not to mention it won't pass inspection) and general street riding.

Pics for clicks.

-J:cool:
29015

29016
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Forewarned is correct, The rod adjustment is just that an adjustment for position to apply the brake up or down for your foot. You just blew out the O-ring inside the master cylinder and yes there is a rebuild kit. Replace the new seals and bleed the rear brake caliper, which is a little pain if you do not have a positive bleeder. If you do not, take the rear caliper off the mount and move it up to a level position in regards to the master cylinder. It is a pain, and bleed it that way. By the way I hardly ever use the rear brake except for when I am just sitting on a uneven ground. On the track I never use the rear brake all front and that goes for most WSB riders. Only some use the rear in the turns for better squatting of the suspension and not stopping Like J. Miller. JM2C
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top