OMR Performance Fender Eliminator
Hi guys, I just bought and installed this fender eliminator and thought I would share my experience.
I got this from Olson Performance (OMR Performance) for ~$220 shipped. It includes the license plate holder, the bracket that fits under the passenger pegs, some miscellaneous hardware, and a plastic piece that covers the opening left by removing the factory fender. It didn't come with any instructions, but if you mananged to remove all the factory parts, this is not hard to figure out. I was able to find instructions online for removing the factory fender and passenger pegs.
Pictures are attached.
Things I learned during this install:
1. The two cap screws closest to the seat that hold the fender (and after, the block off plate) are pretty deep in the bike and you need a very long 4mm hex key that is 4mm for its entire length in order for it to fit in the opening in the fairings. I bought a long T-handle set from Lowe's made by Kobalt.
2. Sounds stupid, but DO NOT drop either of the front two passenger peg bolts. Luckily mine landed where I could just barely see it in the exhaust hanger and I was able to retrieve it with a magnetic pick-up tool.
3. The license plate light needs to be removed from the factory fender and installs with two supplied socket head cap screws. The light goes on the bottom face of the bracket, and the cap screws go down through the top of the bracket into the plate light. I bent the license plate light mounting tab down at a slight angle so that the head of the cap screws didn't touch the subframe. I couldn't see if they were actually touching, but they were so close I just wanted a little safety factor.
4. Factory turn signal connectors: DX is right ("destra") and SX is left ("sinistra")
5. Route all of the wires before bolting everything down. Run all of the wires coming from the kit into the bike directly above the plate and don't have them exit again until the openings that will be under the block off plate. If you don't, the block off won't go on flush and will probably pinch the wires.
6. Test everything before you bolt anything down.
Things I like about the kit:
1. The turn signals are extremely bright, don't change the flash rate (that I notice), disappear when they aren't on, and are arrow shaped. I also like that they are a larger distance from the brake light than other kits. In my opinion, this greatly enhances their visibility.
2. All connectors are plug and play to the factory connectors; all the wires are long enough.
3. Reuses the factory license plate light.
4. The block off plate uses the factory fender screws, looks pretty good and has enough internal volume to manage all the wires and connectors.
5. Everything is pretty rugged. The plate that goes between the subframe and passenger pegs is steel and the license plate holder appears to be aluminum. All coated black.
6. Besides tweaking the license plate light down a little for clearance, I had zero fitment issues.
Minor Criticisms:
1. The wires coming from the turn signals weren't labeled positive and negative that I could see. They have a "banana plug" connectors that connect them to the factory style connector. Seems excessive, but it actually makes it easier to route the wires as these are smaller than the factory connectors. So if you plug them in and the light doesn't blink, just flip the banana plugs. Don't connector the factory adapter to the banana plug until you get everything routed.
2. Some people won't like that they're aren't instructions.
Thanks for reading!
Hi guys, I just bought and installed this fender eliminator and thought I would share my experience.
I got this from Olson Performance (OMR Performance) for ~$220 shipped. It includes the license plate holder, the bracket that fits under the passenger pegs, some miscellaneous hardware, and a plastic piece that covers the opening left by removing the factory fender. It didn't come with any instructions, but if you mananged to remove all the factory parts, this is not hard to figure out. I was able to find instructions online for removing the factory fender and passenger pegs.
Pictures are attached.
Things I learned during this install:
1. The two cap screws closest to the seat that hold the fender (and after, the block off plate) are pretty deep in the bike and you need a very long 4mm hex key that is 4mm for its entire length in order for it to fit in the opening in the fairings. I bought a long T-handle set from Lowe's made by Kobalt.
2. Sounds stupid, but DO NOT drop either of the front two passenger peg bolts. Luckily mine landed where I could just barely see it in the exhaust hanger and I was able to retrieve it with a magnetic pick-up tool.
3. The license plate light needs to be removed from the factory fender and installs with two supplied socket head cap screws. The light goes on the bottom face of the bracket, and the cap screws go down through the top of the bracket into the plate light. I bent the license plate light mounting tab down at a slight angle so that the head of the cap screws didn't touch the subframe. I couldn't see if they were actually touching, but they were so close I just wanted a little safety factor.
4. Factory turn signal connectors: DX is right ("destra") and SX is left ("sinistra")
5. Route all of the wires before bolting everything down. Run all of the wires coming from the kit into the bike directly above the plate and don't have them exit again until the openings that will be under the block off plate. If you don't, the block off won't go on flush and will probably pinch the wires.
6. Test everything before you bolt anything down.
Things I like about the kit:
1. The turn signals are extremely bright, don't change the flash rate (that I notice), disappear when they aren't on, and are arrow shaped. I also like that they are a larger distance from the brake light than other kits. In my opinion, this greatly enhances their visibility.
2. All connectors are plug and play to the factory connectors; all the wires are long enough.
3. Reuses the factory license plate light.
4. The block off plate uses the factory fender screws, looks pretty good and has enough internal volume to manage all the wires and connectors.
5. Everything is pretty rugged. The plate that goes between the subframe and passenger pegs is steel and the license plate holder appears to be aluminum. All coated black.
6. Besides tweaking the license plate light down a little for clearance, I had zero fitment issues.
Minor Criticisms:
1. The wires coming from the turn signals weren't labeled positive and negative that I could see. They have a "banana plug" connectors that connect them to the factory style connector. Seems excessive, but it actually makes it easier to route the wires as these are smaller than the factory connectors. So if you plug them in and the light doesn't blink, just flip the banana plugs. Don't connector the factory adapter to the banana plug until you get everything routed.
2. Some people won't like that they're aren't instructions.
Thanks for reading!
