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I also got my Rapidbike installed, however I did not get a chance to run it on a dyno. But like Epic, I too have noticed the same benefits immediately.

*Epic - if you have any recommendations to maximize the benefits of rapidbike, let me know*
 

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Discussion Starter #22
*Epic - if you have any recommendations to maximize the benefits of rapidbike, let me know*
The only things I would recommend, is to drop the rpm at which tuning starts to 2000rpm, and also to check a couple of times over the first 1500km (~1000miles) to see if the trim maps have maxed out (value of 7 on mine), and apply them to the main maps if required, so that the Rapidbike can continue to adjust fuelling. Do this check again if you make changes to the bike like aftermarket air filter or exhaust. And make sure you do this for both cylinder trim maps.

Other than those simple things, the Rapidbike EVO appears to take care of business quite well.
 

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Love to try this and see what other people call 'smooth'. Tuneboy doesn't address the surging at all, It's scary as **** at the track but it's not just a low throttle thing, I'm talking 120km/h+ 3rd gear, full lean, throttle adjustments really unsettle things on roll-on. Never mind what a pig the bike is under 30kmh.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Love to try this and see what other people call 'smooth'. Tuneboy doesn't address the surging at all, It's scary as **** at the track but it's not just a low throttle thing, I'm talking 120km/h+ 3rd gear, full lean, throttle adjustments really unsettle things on roll-on. Never mind what a pig the bike is under 30kmh.
I'm still very happy with my Rapidbike.
It would have been nice though if the bike had left the showroom floor running like it does now.
 

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I mounted my Rapidbike as in the attached pic. I got the idea from OldManMike's post on the 899 forum, and the pic is his 899.
I ground off three small plastic nibs on the black inner guard in order to mount the Rapidbike flush.

- I took off the mid fairings on both sides.
- I took the battery out completely.
- I took photos of how everything is connected on both sides before unplugging anything.
- I removed the regulator rectifier on the left side, and also undid the ECU on the right side to allow the unbolting of the mounting panels they are secured to, to more easily route the harness. I'm pretty sure I unplugged a bunch of other stuff to make it easier to move the panels around. (Refer to previous photo's taken to plug it all back in)

If you look between the top radiator, and the horizontal cylinder head, you will see that a harness runs across at the top just under the frame/airbox. This is where I ran my Rapidbike harness across. I fed the Rapidbike ECU connector, USB, crank sensor cables from right side to left, as they are the smallest. Either loosen your radiator so you can move it forward a bit (I didn't do this), or cut up a cereal box or something to protect the radiator as you feed the connectors through.

Have a REALLY good look at the round connectors (injectors and TPS) on the rapidbike harness to see the locating tabs and how they are positioned. When you undo the factory harness connector, gently pull it out and see which locating tabs are where. I used a small mirror to double check on the airbox connector. When you plug the round rapidbike connector onto the airbox, it is NOT done up properly until you feel/hear a click with the retaining ring.

The rest is pretty easy to plug in according to the instructions. After everything was bolted on except for the fairings, I turned the ignition on with the laptop connected. The Rapidbike ECU wanted an update so I I let it do that. I also adjusted the tuning to start at 2500rpm instead of 3000rpm. Everything looked ok so I started the bike. It took a couple of minutes for the O2 sensors to heat up and start operating. Then I bolted the fairings on and rode it.

The ride to work today was super smooth.
Wow all i can say is THANKYOU so much for these instructions! Without this i would have definitely not have been able to do the install. The instructions that came with the Rapid Bike EVO were absolute rubbish. All up it took about 6 hours to complete the install.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Wow all i can say is THANKYOU so much for these instructions! Without this i would have definitely not have been able to do the install. The instructions that came with the Rapid Bike EVO were absolute rubbish. All up it took about 6 hours to complete the install.
You're welcome!

When the instructions said feed the harness BETWEEN the cylinders, and I had a hard/impossible time even seeing any light from the other side when looking between them, I thought "Yeah that's not gonna happen".

I hope you find the investment as worthwhile as I have.
 

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Man even taking out for ride after is night and day. Sooo smooth!! Can't imagine it only getting better over time! Btw that cut up cereal box to protect radiator. Fkn genius!!
 

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Those with Rapid Bike installs, has it helped around town, low rpm, low speed, part throttle situations? Or you you will trailing the clutch?
I'm thinking of taking Tuneboy off my bike, keeping only his cruise control and adding Rapid Bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Those with Rapid Bike installs, has it helped around town, low rpm, low speed, part throttle situations? Or you you will trailing the clutch?
I'm thinking of taking Tuneboy off my bike, keeping only his cruise control and adding Rapid Bike.
Hey Bradley,

My feedback in posts #1, #12 and #20 answer your questions I reckon. Basically yes to everything, and very little trailing the clutch now.

Cheers
 

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Question to Epic,

I just had my headers installed for the termi exhaust, therefore making it a complete system. Will RB retune itself or will I need to reset the RB to adjust itself again to compensate for the new headers?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Question to Epic,

I just had my headers installed for the termi exhaust, therefore making it a complete system. Will RB retune itself or will I need to reset the RB to adjust itself again to compensate for the new headers?
Rapidbike is always set up to adjust the tune if necessary.

With a significant change like headers, you may find the TRIM cells may reach the maximum value (7 on mine). I would plug a laptop in 2 or 3 times over the next 1500km's and apply the Trim cells to the main map so that the Rapidbike can continue to adjust fueling. Don't forget to apply trim maps for both cyclinders individually.

Cheers
 

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Rapidbike is always set up to adjust the tune if necessary.

With a significant change like headers, you may find the TRIM cells may reach the maximum value (7 on mine). I would plug a laptop in 2 or 3 times over the next 1500km's and apply the Trim cells to the main map so that the Rapidbike can continue to adjust fueling. Don't forget to apply trim maps for both cyclinders individually.

Cheers
Thanks a lot. I'll try to get that taken care of.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Love to try this and see what other people call 'smooth'. Tuneboy doesn't address the surging at all, It's scary as **** at the track but it's not just a low throttle thing, I'm talking 120km/h+ 3rd gear, full lean, throttle adjustments really unsettle things on roll-on. Never mind what a pig the bike is under 30kmh.
So I went to my first ever track day. It was held at the Collie Motorplex a few weeks ago.
Fuelling was perfect. In my first session the shock rebound damping was set way too soft, and the bike was doing it's best to pogo me off over the small bump in turn two. Even in that situation the throttle was my friend!
There were no roll-on or any other throttle adjustment issues. No surging or unpredictable behaviour. The bike was an absolute joy to ride.
 

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I think I?m going to try a rapid bike evo. All bodywork is off the bike now so a good time to get it done.


I have EU 959 with 1299 underbelly exhaust. I?m guessing the difference between the euro4 and euro3 won?t be a lot of difference in fuelling.


I also have deleted the flapper valve by disconnecting it and using a healtech eliminator when fitting the underbelly cans.


With the valve left open, having read this thread, is it right I will have to alter the base map to suit the adjusted trim within the valve rpm opening range? Once it sets itself up after a few miles of course.

Also will the RapidBike conflict with my flapper valve delete dongle? Should I leave it in or remove it? It fools the bike into thinking it?s operating and works fine so guess the rapid bike will compensate for whatever is thrown at it and adjust to whatever the o2 sensors are tellin it regardless? The valve is after the o2 sensors though...

Does rapid bike have its own delete exhaust valve delete function?


While I?m on I thought I might as well swap the air filter - would a k&n be worthwhile with the RapidBike or just keep it standard. Bike air filters don?t usually seem to make a lot of difference in power I found, usually they make it leaner


Thanks for any advice.
 

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I think I?m going to try a rapid bike evo. All bodywork is off the bike now so a good time to get it done.


I have EU 959 with 1299 underbelly exhaust. I?m guessing the difference between the euro4 and euro3 won?t be a lot of difference in fuelling.


I also have deleted the flapper valve by disconnecting it and using a healtech eliminator when fitting the underbelly cans.


With the valve left open, having read this thread, is it right I will have to alter the base map to suit the adjusted trim within the valve rpm opening range? Once it sets itself up after a few miles of course.

Also will the RapidBike conflict with my flapper valve delete dongle? Should I leave it in or remove it? It fools the bike into thinking it?s operating and works fine so guess the rapid bike will compensate for whatever is thrown at it and adjust to whatever the o2 sensors are tellin it regardless? The valve is after the o2 sensors though...

Does rapid bike have its own delete exhaust valve delete function?


While I?m on I thought I might as well swap the air filter - would a k&n be worthwhile with the RapidBike or just keep it standard. Bike air filters don?t usually seem to make a lot of difference in power I found, usually they make it leaner


Thanks for any advice.
The RapidBike is ignorant of the flapper delete plug. It will tune based on the engine feedback with the value open.

If you are increasing the air flow exiting the engine and expect any additional performance, you should seriously consider replacing the air filter. The 899 kit used to come with the Sprint filter and there are many supporters of going with them across the Panigale model range. The other popular option is the MWR. I am not familiar with many instances of owners installing the K&N filter. Bellissimoto has published several reports of moderate gains from replacing the stock filter with the MWR.
 

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Yeah I spoke to dimsport and they said just leave the eliminator plugged in


I?ve ordered a RapidBike EVO and k&n filter

Bike is at 7500 miles now and needs filter cleaned anyway so might as well replace it


For those with a Rapidbike how low can you/ did you set the rpm to start tuning and can the trim be adjusted in the flapper valve closed rpm range?

The 1199 manual I downloaded said a max trim of 5 is only possible in this rpm range otherwise an error light comes on

Thanks
 

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Fitted the RapidBike EVO today

A bit of a faff to get to the injector connector as the abs pump is in the way and there?s not a lot of room for the harness

Tried locating it where the flapper valve motor was but decided the inner fairing is a much neater job

Air filter change tomorrow
Neat.
Please do let us know what you experience with it is after you put a few miles on it.
 
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