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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to be trailering my 959 to the track on Tuesday. I'll be getting a motorcycle trailer from u-haul. I have some tie downs in my garage. Any words of wisdom from folks who have done this before?
 

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Literally just took my 959 cross country from NJ to LA ( just made it today). Used a tractor supply trailer with a chock.

Like the previous advice I used the canyon dancers. Although I have the updated canyon dancer II:
https://www.amazon.com/Canyon-Dancer-32505-Bar-Harness-Handlebars/dp/B0013LF3ES

They are awesome. The only issue I have found is that it rubs on the steering lock and the cloth part ripped a bit on me.

I also put 2 ratchet straps on the rear. Held them onto the passenger pegs but used pretty weak straps because they were the only ones that would fit between the pegs and exhaust shroud. Maybe someone else knows better but I think you don't actually need rear straps with a chock.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I picked up a canyon dancer2 today from cycle gear. I also got a set of rear wheel straps. I already had 4 ratchets. So, I'll use those to hook to the tie downs. I figure doing extra won't hurt.

I'll post some pictures after i load my bike tomorrow night.
 

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I use a flatbed trailer with wooden planks. I need to take a picture of the new set up but for now while I'm at work this should do...
Many people I know only tie down the fronts but I tie the rear down for piece of mind. I don't use a ratcheting system. DON'T OVERLOAD THE FRONT SUSPENSION TOO MUCH OR YOU CAN BLOW IT. The motorcycle's front shocks help keep the bike stable through travel, so you want there to be some travel in the suspension.

I usually use a big *** velcro strap to keep the front wheel attached to the motorcycle chock.
I've since then added O-screws in the wooden planks to attach the hooks more securely.

Put the peg stand UP. Don't leave it down.

I love velcro to keep the extra piece from flapping around. I used duct-tape here though because duct-tape is invincible when you don't have velcro. I'll show the set up next time I head to the dragstrip. I forget what I was using my velcro on...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I use a flatbed trailer with wooden planks. I need to take a picture of the new set up but for now while I'm at work this should do...
Many people I know only tie down the fronts but I tie the rear down for piece of mind. I don't use a ratcheting system. DON'T OVERLOAD THE FRONT SUSPENSION TOO MUCH OR YOU CAN BLOW IT. The motorcycle's front shocks help keep the bike stable through travel, so you want there to be some travel in the suspension.

I usually use a big *** velcro strap to keep the front wheel attached to the motorcycle chock.
I've since then added O-screws in the wooden planks to attach the hooks more securely.

Put the peg stand UP. Don't leave it down.

I love velcro to keep the extra piece from flapping around. I used duct-tape here though because duct-tape is invincible when you don't have velcro. I'll show the set up next time I head to the dragstrip. I forget what I was using my velcro on...
Thanks for the advice. I'll be picking up the trailer in a couple hours (around 5pm PST) and after I get the bike loaded, I'll post some pictures in case any of you see any flaws in what I'm doing.

I'll make sure I don't ratchet it much. So, just compress the suspension a little? When you say put the peg stand up, you're referring to the kickstand, correct?

Did you tie the rear at the passenger pegs? I picked up a pair of rear wheel tie down straps from Cycle gear. When I get home, I'll verify. But I think they were these ones. I was thinking about securing them to the side hooks with my ratchets in the trailer to keep it secure:
 

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@avigil - That strap works, I always used a microfiber cloth where the strap would touch the rim, so the rim doesn't scratch. Yeah, just a little compression on the front is all you need, maybe a 1/2-1" of travel from the bar ends. Kickstand up. You might want to get a used Coleman or Igloo to keep the kit in when you take the bike off the trailer, that's what I used to use.
@Panza - gaffers tape is better than duct tape because it doesn't leave a sticky residue behind
 

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@avigil - That strap works, I always used a microfiber cloth where the strap would touch the rim, so the rim doesn't scratch. Yeah, just a little compression on the front is all you need, maybe a 1/2-1" of travel from the bar ends. Kickstand up. You might want to get a used Coleman or Igloo to keep the kit in when you take the bike off the trailer, that's what I used to use.
@Panza - gaffers tape is better than duct tape because it doesn't leave a sticky residue behind
Over protective friend put the duct-tape on there because he was afraid the hooks would ... unhook. Cant fault the guy. The residue was a pain in the *** though. I keep 3M adhesive remover around for a reason...
 

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I've used Canyon Dancer II's, they are no good if you've got bar end weights and tend to wreck grips, well that's what I found.

I use a front wheel chock, two straps around the lower triple only pulling the front down about an inch and two around the frame. Bikes don't budget with this setup.

 
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Discussion Starter #11
That looks great! How does it not rotate forward and back? Do you have more pictures of the tie downs? How do you get it up there? With a ramp?

I like the ease of loading with a trailer. But it's a pain to go pick it up and return it and drive with it. I've been thinking about setting up the back of my pickup truck so that I can load my bike into it. But I'd hate to have a ramp accident bringing it up or down. I have a Nissan Frontier, so my tailgate is lower than bigger trucks. But the ramp would still be a much steeper incline than a low trailer. Riding it up and down a low trailer is so easy/safe.
 

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I have on those for my offroad bike but I thought they had weight limits in the 2-250lb range.

*edit* I stand corrected, looks like 600lb models are common with a quick google search
 

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What stops the bike for leaning forwards / backwards when breaking ?
I've been thinking about getting something like this.

How do you load the bike? Just push or with power ?
Are you nervous when you hit a bump that something will give and the bike will be on the ground?
 

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Its rock solid. You need to ensure your hitch can handle a tongue weight of 600 pounds. The carrier is a SMC 600r from discount ramps. You need to use the bolt and the stabilizer screws. To secure it you go straight up through the shock areas and hook to soft loops attached to the inner handlebars. Note that the inner handlebars are sharp edged so they can cut into your soft loops over time, especially if you wrap them over the pointy edges. I use 1000pound soft loops for extra security.

Also, make sure you don't overload the front suspension. You just need to ratchet until you eliminate all slack. Your front suspension should only compress slightly
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Its rock solid. You need to ensure your hitch can handle a tongue weight of 600 pounds. The carrier is a SMC 600r from discount ramps. You need to use the bolt and the stabilizer screws. To secure it you go straight up through the shock areas and hook to soft loops attached to the inner handlebars. Note that the inner handlebars are sharp edged so they can cut into your soft loops over time, especially if you wrap them over the pointy edges. I use 1000pound soft loops for extra security.

Also, make sure you don't overload the front suspension. You just need to ratchet until you eliminate all slack. Your front suspension should only compress slightly
This looks really cool. I have a Canyon Dancer II. From the pictures I see on the their website , it looks like you can also use the canyon dancer for the front. To secure the rear, did you just wrap a single ratchet around the top of the front of the rear wheel just above the swingarm? That's what it looks like from the picture.
 

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Yes, the single ratchet strap locks the rear in place very soundly. You dont need two in the rear.

The front chock and the two front ratchet straps pulling in opposing directions lock in the front. The carrier comes with a light aluminum ramp that tucks and secures away nicely behind the bike when not being used.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Its rock solid. You need to ensure your hitch can handle a tongue weight of 600 pounds. The carrier is a SMC 600r from discount ramps. You need to use the bolt and the stabilizer screws. To secure it you go straight up through the shock areas and hook to soft loops attached to the inner handlebars. Note that the inner handlebars are sharp edged so they can cut into your soft loops over time, especially if you wrap them over the pointy edges. I use 1000pound soft loops for extra security.

Also, make sure you don't overload the front suspension. You just need to ratchet until you eliminate all slack. Your front suspension should only compress slightly
I just ordered an SMC-600R. Should arrive on Friday. Can you share the front wheel chock hole that you adjusted it to? And any other settings that you had for adjustable parts? I figure that if it works for you, it will for me and I'd rather learn from you than through trial and error. I'm assuming that everything on the 899 is roughly the same size as the 959. It looks like getting the front wheel chock adjusted to the correct notch will be very helpful.

I have a 2012 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X Crew Cab 4wd. The max. tongue load is 610 pounds. Since the 959 is 430 pounds and this carrier is ~90 pounds, that should be 520 pounds total which would be fine for my truck. Let me know if I'm missing anything though please.

Yes, the single ratchet strap locks the rear in place very soundly. You dont need two in the rear.

The front chock and the two front ratchet straps pulling in opposing directions lock in the front. The carrier comes with a light aluminum ramp that tucks and secures away nicely behind the bike when not being used.
I saw a video on Youtube of a guy tying down a different bike and he used 2 ratchets for the front, 1 for the rear wheel, and 1 for the rider foot pegs. He just went from peg to peg going under the carrier. I'm assuming that wouldn't hurt to do. What do you think?

By the way, I bought the magnetic trailer light separately from discount ramps. I highly recommend using it.
The magnetic trailer light setup is about $75. I've never bought them, but I was expecting it to be a little cheaper. But it sounds like it's worth the $$. And I'd assume that you could use it with other trailers (as long as they are metal)...
 

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Looking forward to hearing/ reading more on this set-up as its very compelling to me. I have an Infiniti JX35 (QX60 I think is what they call it now) and the trailer rigs that I have seen for sale will support the tongue load.
 
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