[wildpopcorn]

Hey guys,

I have a '16 959 pani, and I've had no problems until now

I got my brakes bleed the other week and ever since then for whatever reason the bike just feels very slow.

I will give it full throttle on race mode, on high engine power, at 5k revs and it just feels very slow like the bike is just not moving that fast.. before i felt like my balls were going inside my stomach so its def not just in my head...



any thoughts???

taking it in this week to the shop. this sucks

 

[Dingo]

who did the job on the brakes? any chance they messed with something...?

 

[YukonLT]

Can't imagine how bleeding the brakes would have any effect on the performance of the bike as far as acceleration.

 

[wildpopcorn]

who did the job on the brakes? any chance they messed with something...?

it is a very good shop one of the best in the country so i doubt it

Can't imagine how bleeding the brakes would have any effect on the performance of the bike as far as acceleration.

right so i think it is a separate issue.. just odd how it happened immediately after

rode again today and the bike is definitely slower.. doesn't pull as hard for sure

 

[DJ Shrug]

Does your bike sound different at 5k? Are your brakes significantly quicker to engage?


While your butt dyno probably has a different calibration everytime you ride it, your balls riding into the tank makes it seem like your brakes are engaging at speed. Maybe they poorly bled your brakes and instead of getting air out, they compromised and adjusted the pivot point. 959's have a problem with ABS and a two-pull pressure buildup.

Unless there's something wrong with your fuel pump or the set of injectors (which might mean you could be running dangerously lean), since you've given info about brake bleeding, I'd say your 959 is constantly applying pressure and slowing you down.

 

[wildpopcorn]

Does your bike sound different at 5k? Are your brakes significantly quicker to engage?


While your butt dyno probably has a different calibration everytime you ride it, your balls riding into the tank makes it seem like your brakes are engaging at speed. Maybe they poorly bled your brakes and instead of getting air out, they compromised and adjusted the pivot point. 959's have a problem with ABS and a two-pull pressure buildup.

Unless there's something wrong with your fuel pump or the set of injectors (which might mean you could be running dangerously lean), since you've given info about brake bleeding, I'd say your 959 is constantly applying pressure and slowing you down.

if this were the case wouldn't the RPMs still rise just as fast

i

 

[Kruz]

It's a long shot but check your riding modes to see if you are in Race, Road or Wet modes. I switched from Race to Sport mode one time and it felt like someone had stuffed a shop rag in my intake, similar to what you are describing here.


When you take your bike into a shop you have no idea who did what and why, another reason I prefer doing all my own work.


It did cross my mind that your brakes are dragging, easy enough to check, put the bike in neutral on a flat smooth surface like your garage floor and see if it rolls freely. You threw me off when you said it's revving slowly though, that has nothing to do with brakes obviously.

 

[DJ Shrug]

if this were the case wouldn't the RPMs still rise just as fast

So you're saying that you get slow engine response while both moving and while at a standstill, revving the engine?


To echo what @Kruz said, ENG High and Med (defaults of Race and Sport modes) certainly modify engine response. With any mode however, if at a constant throttle position (at a level where your bike continues to accelerate) you get a major change in acceleration (at 5k), at worst it should only feel as if you lost power and not smashing your balls into the tank - there's something else that's causing the deceleration. Unless you chop the throttle (or the throttle-by-wire is failing somehow, sending bike into limp mode), you shouldn't be engine braking.


Restating my questions: Does your bike sound different at 5k? Are your brakes significantly quicker to engage?

 

[dougo1199]

Those were my thoughts as well. Double check your rider aid and engine settings. They may have been accidentally adjusted during the brake service. As mentioned above, (assuming you have no stands) rolling the bike in neutral on a flat surface will reveal any brake drag of that caliber straight away.

 

[MiamiJAG]

Hey guys,

I have a '16 959 pani, and I've had no problems until now

I got my brakes bleed the other week and ever since then for whatever reason the bike just feels very slow.

I will give it full throttle on race mode, on high engine power, at 5k revs and it just feels very slow like the bike is just not moving that fast.. before i felt like my balls were going inside my stomach so its def not just in my head...



any thoughts???

taking it in this week to the shop. this sucks

It happened something similar to mine, in my case it was an electric exhaust motor that opens a flap. Was under warranty and got it replaced. Hope it helps.

 

[TVGuy]

It happened something similar to mine, in my case it was an electric exhaust motor that opens a flap. Was under warranty and got it replaced. Hope it helps.

That servo motor not working shouldn't negatively alter the power output. It is to help the bike pass noise regulations. Many people disable or remove the flap (leaving it in the open position) immediately after purchase. You must have had something else going on as well.

 

[DJ Shrug]

That servo motor not working shouldn't negatively alter the power output. It is to help the bike pass noise regulations. Many people disable or remove the flap (leaving it in the open position) immediately after purchase. You must have had something else going on as well.

Yep, with the flapper working as normal, it only opens after a certain engine rev and "frees" up the exhaust. If the flapper motor is broken, the default state is to be open. Even if it were closed shut, you'd still get consistent performance across the whole rev range and nothing drastic like the OP is describing.

 

[MiamiJAG]

Yep, with the flapper working as normal, it only opens after a certain engine rev and "frees" up the exhaust. If the flapper motor is broken, the default state is to be open. Even if it were closed shut, you'd still get consistent performance across the whole rev range and nothing drastic like the OP is describing.

Could be. When it happened to me, I was breaking in the engine, so no high revs and unable to notice anything, but once in the dealership for the 600 mile service, the mechanic took it for a drive and noticed that it didn't respond or sounded as it should, put it in the computer and it showed that flapper was nearly closed, thus causing power loss/lag.

 

[wildpopcorn]

taking it in tomorrow so hopefully we can get an answer.

i dont think the brakes are engaging any sooner? when i roll the bike in neutral it seems okay maybe a bit tight but i dont really have a reference point so i can't say

 

[wildpopcorn]

so i took it in today and they said everything was fine..


the tech just took it for a ride and said it was normal

disappointed because i know for sure its slower... i didn't just wake up one day and start imagining things. its not like i was looking for it to be slower so.........

idk what to do

time to sell i guess:|

 

[Dingo]

@wildpopcorn - have you checked ALL the menu settings? perhaps EBC was all on and now it's not, and that's what's giving you the impression that its slower...?

 

[wildpopcorn]

@wildpopcorn - have you checked ALL the menu settings? perhaps EBC was all on and now it's not, and that's what's giving you the impression that its slower...?

i noticed the change in power when it was on 1. now its on 3 and still the same.. shouldn't EBC just be different when i let go of the throttle

 

[FK482]

Maybe it's stuck in wet mode. Can you feel the difference when you toggle between rider modes? or do they all feel slower than they used to be? i.e. is race still significantly more punchy than wet BUT just feels wrongly slow? Weird stuff.

 

[Dingo]

you can't just change modes and expect the settings to be different - you can save whatever settings u want in any of the 3 modes. Go thru them and set them all again, saving each one, and see if that changes anything. Yes EBC is only when off the throttle after a certain RPM.

 

[DJ Shrug]

taking it in tomorrow so hopefully we can get an answer.

i dont think the brakes are engaging any sooner? when i roll the bike in neutral it seems okay maybe a bit tight but i dont really have a reference point so i can't say

If its a bit tight, there's something wrong. Once the bike starts rolling, if your brakes are really dragging, they'll expand ever-so-slightly from the heat and start to drag more. On the front brake lever, you should at least have some free play (ie. maybe 5-10 degrees or about enough to disengage the brake switch and hear it click).

so i took it in today and they said everything was fine..


the tech just took it for a ride and said it was normal

disappointed because i know for sure its slower... i didn't just wake up one day and start imagining things. its not like i was looking for it to be slower so.........

idk what to do

time to sell i guess:|

T
I'm sure there's an explanation to this. No tech is going to go above and beyond and do extra stuff for no payment, so it has to be something related to the brake bleeding. How are your brake fluid levels?

Does this occur all the time (ie. engine's cold - not warmed up vs. engine's hot).

i noticed the change in power when it was on 1. now its on 3 and still the same.. shouldn't EBC just be different when i let go of the throttle

Change in power only comes from changing the engine mode (HIGH/MED/LOW). EBC at maximum (level 3) provides the maximum amount of control/mitigation, thus the least amount of engine braking. EBC off would mean un-mitigated engine braking (ie. the max slow when throttle is chopped closed).


To go off @Dingo said, since you're already contemplating selling your bike, you could try to reset the riding mode to the OEM defaults so we can factor out riding modes as a cause. Around pages 111-112 in our manuals shows how to get there (see attached).

@wildpopcorn don't give up!